Adding lace to your garment is a great way to create a unique, delicate, and elegant element to your design. You can choose just about any project you want and apply the technique below to excel. I am currently haveing a lot of fun sewing lingerie! Lingerie projects give you the ability to go crazy with small design details you wouldn’t have thought about applying to other projects.
For this project, I used a beautiful Modal Knit Jersey that has a small amount of spandex which allows it to have a lot of stretch. You must choose a trim that has a similar amount of stretch to it. I used this gorgeous rose colored stretch lace.
Start by cutting out your project as you would normally. Then decide where you would like to lay your lace down. Get creative! The possibilities are really endless. The design below is a pretty normal cutout design for lingerie.
Making sure the lace is laying very flat, pin the lace in place perpendicular to the line you will be sewing. I highly recommend using ultra fine pins on any lace project.
When sewing lace as a cutout on knit fabric you must use a zig zag stitch. Modern machine makes sewing with knits very easy. In the picture below, stitch # 6,7, or 06 in mode 2 are all great option. For my project, I selected a medium zig zag stitch and lengthened it. Both the fabric and the lace I used are very fine so I was afraid if I used too small of a zig zag stitch I would rip through the fabric. Make sure to test on a practice scrap first.
Stitch along the edge of the lace as close as you can to the edge. If you’re feeling brave, which I was not on this fabric, follow the scalloped edge.
Side note: I have a Janome sewing machine that uses the Accufeed System, which is a fancy walking foot. If you have this available to you, I highly recommend using it. Frankly I don’t take it off my machine unless I have to but for this particular project it came in handy. If you don’t have one, then use a regular walking foot. This allows the fabric to feed more smoothly through your machine while working with these delicate fabrics.
Your fabric and your lace should lay flat after you’ve sewn it.
Troubleshooting tips: If your fabric seems to get stretched out while you sew it, and puckering in the back, lengthen your stitch length and make sure you are using the right needle. I used a 70 ballpoint needle for my project. Sometimes knit gets stretched out while you are sewing it. If this happens, change the amount of pressure being applied to your presser foot.
Sew down both sides of the lace. Cut the fabric from between the two lines of sewing, getting very close to the seam.
Finish your project off sewing it how you normally would. Wasn’t that easy!
Hope you enjoyed and good luck with lace!