Double Gauze has always been a favorite here at Harts Fabrics and one of our favorite designers is Nani Iro. Her prints are always so beautiful, and the double gauze is so light and soft! We recently got a new shipment from Japan and I instantly fell in love with her latest florals! I had made a similar skirt in the past from a different Nani Iro print, so I thought this would be a perfect opportunity to show you guys how to make one too!
Here is what you will need for the project:
Double Gauze! I chose Nani Iro En Garden in Cream. How much fabric you need will be determined by your waist measurement and I’ll get to that in a moment.
Lining – I picked Ambiance Rayon Lining in Cream
1/2 yard cotton solid for the waistband
Notions – 2yds 1/4″ elastic, thread, pins, scissors.
Okay, let’s get started! First, how much fabric will you need? Great question! This skirt has a simple elastic waist, so there isn’t any complicated fitting that you will need to do. You will want your skirt to be approximately 2 times your waist measurement. Since my waist is 35″ I went with a yard of fabric. Both the lining and the double gauze are 44″ wide, so when I cut my fabric in half down the length I was left with two 36″ by 22″ pieces.
Here is a helpful little diagram, I hope it makes sense! You will need to cut both your lining and your main fabric in a similar manner. One piece will be the back and one piece will be the front.
You will also need to cut your waist band! I used a 44″ wide cotton solid. First cut two 6″ strips, then trim the 44″ width down to the same length as your skirt panels. My waistband strips measure 36″ by 6″.
Now let’s start sewing!
For my skirt I decided to do French seams! If you have never done French seams before, don’t worry! They really aren’t hard! A french seam is created by sewing your side seam twice to encase the raw fabric edge inside the seam. It makes your finished seam look super polished. If you don’t want to use a French seam you can finish your edges any way you’d like :)
First sew the side seams with wrong sides together. I used a 1/4″ seam allowance. Then press your fabric with right sides together and sew with a slightly larger seam allowance- I used 3/8″. Once your seam is nicely stitched, press towards the back of your garment. Aren’t French seams lovely? No messy threads or raw edges, I love them!
Repeat for your lining fabric!
Next, with right sides facing out, pin your lining inside your skirt.
Using a basting stitch, attach your lining to your skirt using a 1/4″ seam allowance. It will be a lot easier to attach the waistband if the two layers are stitched together. The lining gets especially slippery! Haha! I like to use my even feed foot for this step, it really helps keep the slippery layer from wiggling away from you.
Next, sew your waistband pieces together and press open. You will now have a ring of fabric the same size around as your skirt.
Pin the waistband to your skirt with right sides together. Sew the waistband to the skirt using a 5/8″ seam allowance.
Press the seam up towards the waistband. On the opposite edge, press a 1/4″ around. This will give the inside of the waistband a nice finished edged when we stitch it down.
Using the line of stitching on the top of the skirt as a guide, pin the folded over waistband in place.
Sew all the way around the waistband keeping close to the finished edge. Be sure to leave a couple inch gap in the band so that you can feed in your elastic!
Time to make our elastic channels! I’ve marked each channel about 5/8″ apart. When you finish sewing you will have four channels in you waistband, but you will only feed elastic into two of them. The elastic will be inserted into the second and forth casing while the other two are left empty.
You want to make sure that your rows of stitches are nice and straight. I like to use a strip of cute tape on my machine as a guide. It’s really helpful when you are sewing something with a much wider seam allowance. Also, don’t forget to leave an opening in all of your channels, otherwise your wont be able to get your elastic in there!
Time to insert your elastic. When you cut your elastic, make sure both pieces are the same length- if one piece is longer than the other it will create an off-balance, wonky waistband! You want your elastic to be snug, but not too tight that it is uncomfortable for you. I use a safety pint to feed my elastic, but you can use whatever works for you :)
Just remember, you leave the top casing empty, and only feed the elastic into the 2nd and 4th channel.
Once your elastic is in place you can stitch up the gaps in your casings and finish your waistband!
Hem your skirt and the lining and you’re all ready to go! This is a nice quick project and I hope you guys enjoy it! If you have never tried working with double gauze be sure to check it out, you will fall in love, I promise :)